To the unsuspecting tourist, the first impression of Vietnam can be that of a dirty, overcrowded, suffocating hellhole. Ho Chi Minh City is not kind to the uninitiated. The treacherous traffic, unscrupulous vendors and constant cacophony of its eight million residents can often leave new visitors to the country thinking “get me the hell outta here!”

Mui Ne's red sand dunes

This is where Mui Ne comes in. A mere five hours bus ride from Ho Chi Minh, the calm of Mui Ne wraps around its visitors from the moment they step off the dusty, ancient coach. I arrived at midnight, and was flung off the bus with my bag, to find myself standing in the middle of a wide, deserted road which turned out to be Mui Ne’s main strip. I say main strip, but really the town only consists of this one quiet street lined with palm trees, restaurants, guesthouses and a few bars, which runs parallel to the long, sweeping beach.  Accommodation in Mui Ne ranges from shabby beach huts to fabulous five star resorts, but low budget here doesn’t necessarily mean grotty. I stayed in Hiep Hoa, a lovely little resort situated right on the beach. The apartments and cottages are simple and clean, and the best news is it costs as little as $15US a night. There are many other resorts around within the same price range, but when booking accommodation in Mui Ne the most important requirement is staying on the beach side of the street. Falling asleep with the balcony doors open listening to the sound of the sea is pure bliss. Could Mui Ne be the most relaxing place on earth?

The food doesn’t disappoint either. Vietnamese food can often be indeterminable (is this chicken, pork, what?!), but Mui Ne’s proximity to the sea results in some of the tastiest dishes around. The seafood barbecue is a big favourite, with many of the restaurants offering a seafood smorgasbord which is barbecued on the table in front of you. Eating in Mui Ne was one of my best culinary experiences in Vietnam (or possibly ever!) - there’s nothing quite like juicy king prawns straight off the coals, washed down with some local beer.

Mui Ne is certainly a place to go to unwind, but there’s much more to do there than just laze on the beach (although yes, it is tempting!). Once you’re tired of watching the kite surfers master the waves, head back up to the main strip and hire a motorbike (okay, or a scooter) from one of the many roadside vendors. The main attractions around Mui Ne are all some distance away, and the quiet open roads are the perfect place for novice riders to perfect their biking skills. As long as the beautiful coastline, and wild, tundra-like interior doesn’t distract you too much…

The incredible red sand dunes are only a twenty minute motorbike ride away, and best visited at sunrise or sunset when their colour is at its most breathtaking. The white sand dunes are more than an hours drive away, but what a drive it is. And if that doesn’t thrill you, the majestic white peaks, surrounded by an aqua blue lake surely will. This is one of Vietnam’s most special places.

Girl at the red sand dunes

Mui Ne is so unspoilt because not that many people know about it. It barely features in the travel guides to Vietnam, and many travellers only go there after hearing Chinese whispers about its greatness. But this anonymity won’t last for long. The tranquility of Mui Ne is all part of its charm, so try and go before it becomes too popular and turns into another Ko Pha-Ngan. Or just don’t tell too many people about it!

It can be our secret… I’ll see you there.